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Glashütte Original.Close-up of the new SeaQ Chronograph

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Glashütte Original

Glashütte Original.Close-up of the new SeaQ Chronograph

Inläggav Tony.A. » tor 29 sep 2022, 08:23

Close-up of the new SeaQ Chronograph
The first diver’s watch from Glashütte Original with short-term measurement

Once again, the manufactory from the German watchmaking town of Glashütte
presents the real thing – a genuine original in more ways than one. The new SeaQ
Chronograph is the first diver’s watch from Glashütte Original to be equipped with a
chronograph movement. The new model features a handmade automatic movement
designed to accompany contemporary adventurers wherever they go – a challenge
the designers at Glashütte Original took on with great sensitivity and creativity. The
result? A modern mechanical movement full of originality.


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The challenge
In developing the new chronograph, Glashütte Original based the design concept on four
considerations: how can it be made as accurate, robust, easy to use and aesthetically
pleasing as possible? For the new SeaQ Chronograph, the bar was set exceptionally high.
The objective was to develop a flyback chronograph that handles short-term measurement
reliably and to combine it with a watch that meets the rigorous requirements of the ISO and
DIN standards for diver’s watches. The stakes could not be higher: to ensure that a
handmade, finely crafted mechanism was ready – not just for everyday use, but for extreme
condition

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Short-term measurement meets diver’s watch
A diver’s life may well depend on their watch functioning properly. For this reason, the
watches in the SeaQ family are subjected to rigorous testing to ensure they meet the ISO
6425 and DIN 8306 standards. They must withstand extreme temperature changes, resist
saltwater corrosion, ensure optimal legibility in the dark and have a unidirectional rotating
bezel with a scale allowing the diver to determine how much time remains for the dive. For
the water resistance test, Glashütte Original exceeded the standard and tested the SeaQ
up to a pressure of 30 bar (300 meters). The watchmaker also set its own high standards
for the chronograph: the watch had to have a column wheel switch and a flyback mechanism.
The designers took these and many other aspects into account as they developed the SeaQ
Chronograph

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Under the loupe: a tiny turn for greater shock resistance
One of the requirements for diver’s watches: shock resistance from a height of one meter.
Apparently straightforward, it’s a nightmare for everyone who owns a mechanical watch – in
reality a situation one would avoid at all costs.

The watchmakers at Glashütte Original examined this aspect closely, using a special device
under laboratory conditions. In particular, the key point – if the watch is dropped – is to
ensure that the dial does not buckle or warp on impact, which could interfere with, or even
block, the hands. As a result, the designers placed a hollow hexagonal socket screw, made
of stainless steel, in the centre of the dial. It is placed from above over the hand shafts, thus
fixing the dial to the plate before the hands are mounted. Thanks to this small but very
effective construction detail, the dial remains securely in place, even in the event of a shock.

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Under the loupe: even more space for rate precision
Both resistance and rate precision are of fundamental importance for the functional reliability
of a mechanical watch. This also involves the effort to achieve optimally uniform –
isochronous – oscillation of the balance, in every position and even while the chronograph
is running. For this reason, Glashütte Original’s designers chose to intervene directly in the
architecture of the SeaQ Chronograph movement. The balance was given more space,
allowing it to oscillate unhindered and thus gain a few degrees of valuable amplitude. They
created space to move freely – for the watch and the person wearing it.

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Under the loupe: a versatile crown offers even greater ease of use
The SeaQ Chronograph’s short-term measurement is a world of its own. It features a flyback
function, i.e. reset and restart of the stop hand on the fly, central stop-seconds, and a 30-
minute counter at 3 o’clock; all are operated using the two pushers on the edge of the case.
In addition, Glashütte Original’s signature Panorama Date is found just above 6 o’clock. All
of these displays are easily set via the crown: in position 1, the automatic movement is
wound, in position 2 the date can be corrected, and in position 3, the time can be set while
the second stop is activated. This design made it possible to do without a separate date
corrector on the side of the case, thus enhancing the water resistance of the watch.

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A sporty and elegant companion for any and all adventures
The debut model of the SeaQ Chronograph is dressed in dark blue, from the handmade dial
to the unidirectional rotating bezel with ceramic inlay. The hour, minute and stop-seconds
hands are coated with highly luminous Super-LumiNova ®
, as are the indexes and the
triangle symbol on the bezel. The stainless steel case, 43.2 mm in diameter, is fitted front
and back with sapphire crystals, and the fluted screw-down crown has a fine wave
decoration. Four different straps are available: a dark blue rubber strap, a stainless steel link
bracelet, and two synthetic fabric straps made from recycled fishnets, in grey or blue.

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A special premiere
For the Glashütte Original team, the development of the new SeaQ Chronograph turned into
a multi-year voyage of discovery. Now the watch is ready to accompany its owners from all
over the world on their own uniquely individual adventures. The new SeaQ Chronograph is
available as of October 2022 from all Glashütte Original Boutiques and selected retailers
worldwide

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A contemporary chronograph movement
The automatic movement Calibre 37-23 combines maximum resistance, precision and user-
friendliness with a running time of over 70 hours. The silicon balance spring offers enhanced
resistance to the influence of magnetic fields, for example, and thanks to its steady
oscillation, greater rate precision. The entire movement is elaborately decorated by hand
with great skill and sensitivity, and can be admired through its sapphire crystal case back –
by no means a given with a diver’s watch.

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Proud to be the Original #PTBTO
Tony.A.
Rock n' Rolex
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Tony.A.
Forumägare Club Seven 1/7
 
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Blev medlem: lör 05 maj 2012, 06:35

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